The bugaboos have several internationally known rock climbing routes. Found on the south end of the west face, surfs up is accessed via the snowpatchbugaboo col. With many peaks over 3,000 metres in elevation, the bugaboos offer awe inspiring mountain and glacier terrain. Snowpatch spire sits in the middle of the bugaboo group, so has a great view of the bugaboo glacier peaks, pigeon spire, the howser towers, bugaboo spire, crescent spires, and applebee dome camp. All routes on the west face are approached via the bugaboosnowpatch col located on the north end of snowpatch spire. This base camp for climbers operates to reduce visitor impacts on the fragile timberline area below snowpatch spire. Mar 27, 2020 bugaboos supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Just got back from 5 days in the bugaboos with my friend clint cummins. The route offers sustained climbing on excellent rock. Snowpatch spire is on the left, and bugaboo spire is on the right. Perhaps the most impressive peak in the bugaboos, the spire is situated between the vowell and crescent glaciers. Beckeys bugaboo hat trick snowpatch and bugaboo spire. One of the most spectacular climbing routes in western canada, the kain route up bugagoo spire is a complete classic for experienced climbers.
Rock climbing routes in snowpatch spire, the bugaboos. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world famous. The bugaboos or the bugs bugaboo provincial park is regarded as canadas best destination for alpine rock climbing. Sep 23, 2019 with many peaks over 3,000 metres in elevation, the bugaboos offer awe inspiring mountain and glacier terrain. Between the two peaks is the dreaded bugaboo snowpatch col, a highly traveled corridor for access to many of the routes in the area.
The aesthetics and stunning positions on the ridge make this an area classic. Snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group. Bugaboo alpine rock mountaineering alpine rock in nelson bc. Pitch 3 continues up a left facing thin and technical seamstem over a roof. Approach from the kain hut is vai the bugaboosnowpatch col. There are both bolted and free routes throughout the group. Rock climbing in snowpatch spire, the bugaboos mountain project. Its also a terrific option for less experienced climbers to choose to climb with a guide. However, this is a serious alpine climb, and further research of the current guidebook. And, in 2001, aaron martin linked bugaboo, pigeon, south howser, and snowpatch spires in about 12 hours, skipping the mctech arete.
Some of the popular peaks and classic routes we recommend in the bugaboos include. Its right in front of you when you reach the hut, the distinctive snowfield that gives the mountain its name front and center. The bugaboos consist of high quality rock spires rising from beautiful glaciers, and the variety and number of rock routes is astounding. Formerly best known as an aidclimbing venue, it is now covered in free routesmostly difficult ones, usually with at least a couple of 5. On the freeclimbing front, chris brazeau and colin moorhead established two new routes and a first free ascent in the bugaboos. Yamnuskas bugaboos climbing guides have extensive knowledge of this area and its climbing routes.
Between the two peaks is the dreaded bugaboosnowpatch col, a highly traveled corridor for access to many of the routes in the area. Over the last decade or so, the 500m east face of snowpatch spire has been transformed into one of the finest alpine free climbing walls in north america. With its first ascent in 1940, snowpatch spire mountain peak was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. I was intrigued by the beckey chouinard route on south howser tower a fifty classic as well as snowpatch spire the spire which towers above applebee camp.
The quality of the granite, the wilderness setting, the sharpness of the peaks, and the beauty of the surrounding glaciers all combine to put the bugs on every climbers hit list. Snowpatch was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. The mountain range is located in the core of the purcell mountains, on the border between british columbia and alberta. On one of the two ascents ive made of it, we shared it with one. Bugaboos 2007 beckeychouinard, nw ridge hounds tooth.
The two prominent peaks closest to camp are bugaboo spire and snowpatch spire. Overview snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group. If a summer like 2009 happens again, then both climbing and rappelling the pigeonsnowpatch rappels might be a new way to approach the west face routes. Snowpatch east face photo with route lines of the free climbs. Another hike we did, was to hike west towards the glacier next to and below the snowpatch spire. Stay left of the stacked left facing flakes, climbing the face on small face cracks, through small roofs gaining a sling belay. The kain route on bugaboo spire is one of canadas most iconic alpine climbs. When you round the final corner on the long and winding logging road and see the full glory of the towering, dark granite spires rising directly out of tumbling glaciers, you will be in awe. We climbed the bugaboo spire, pigeon spire, snowpatch spire, eastpost spire, and crescent spire in bugaboo provincial park. Bugaboo spire is one of the most phenomenal features in the climbing world. The largest wall on snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15. The quality of the granite, the wilderness setting, the sharpness of the peaks, and the beauty of the.
Some classic routes are the west ridge of pigeon spire 5. This is one of roper and stecks fifty classic climbs of north america a beautiful line in an incredible position. The snowpatch route on spowpatch spire in the bugaboos is a classic if for no other reason in that it is one of the most prominent and visible routes from the kain hut. It is located southwest of the conrad kain hut, across the crescent glacier. Climb with us in the bugaboos a spectacular alpine rock climbing area in british columbias purcell range. There are two classic british columbia climbing routes. Wed been digging deep to commit to an adventure over to the megaclassic beckeychouinard on the backside of the bugs after waiting out rainstorms. Dec 19, 2015 on the freeclimbing front, chris brazeau and colin moorhead established two new routes and a first free ascent in the bugaboos. Html guide warning guide view may take some time to load for areas with large numbers of routes instant pdf generic precreated pdf for bugaboos the file is 0. The mini guide consists of the same content for the megapopular routes as they are printed in the atkinsonpiche guidebook, which is the. Climbscramble up easy fifth class to a shallow wide ledge. The spire was first climbed by conrad kain in 1916. The largest wall on snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15 pitches and almost all of them being big wall in nature.
In the bugaboos during the last week of july, craig luebben, will hair, brad jackson and kennan harvey teamed up to establish sweet sylvia v 5. Posted on september 01, 2016 my thursday night art project. Rock climbing in the bugaboos sylvan rocks climbing. Alpine rock acmg certified mountain guide in canada and. Bugaboo spire, howser spires, snowpatch spire, pigeon spire and more. Over the past decade, the east face, which rises above applebee campground, has had more attention than usual for attempts at hard free routes. Snowpatch spire has worldclass hard alpine free routes. During my many trips across the bugaboosnowpatch col to climb the classic towerspigeon spires west ridge, bugaboo spires kain routei. It may have been the finest display of alpine skullduggery ive ever witnessed, what happened at the base of pigeon spire in the bugaboos that day. Little did he realize that future generations would establish routes on this spire that are considered the most enjoyable and aesthetic lines in the bugaboos. Bugaboo spire climbing guide british columbia climbing. There are many classic climbs up the spire, including sunshine crack 5.
From the kain hut head north toward the bugaboo snowpatch col and turn off before the col as if heading to the crescent spire. This is also a great area for a backpacking trip if you looking for a challenging trip with spectacular alpine scenery. Last season, michelle kadatz and i investigated the sector in the bugaboo guidebook where the great flake fell off the lower middle section of snowpatch spire, taking the first three pitches of several routes including les bruines es pentinen, deus ex machina, and the original sunshine wall with it. Green and bensons bugaboo rock lists 37 routes on the peak. The conrad kain hut is maintained by bc parks and the alpine club of canada. It stands just to the west of applebee campground and is host to over 50 routes from 5. Snowpatch spire 10,050 feet this dominant buttress holds over 50 routes from 5. Dec 19, 2015 peter croft had previously linked the four hardest of these routes all except pigeon spire in about 14 hours. Any more will spoil the mystery and anxiety for you. Jun 08, 2016 we climbed the bugaboo spire, pigeon spire, snowpatch spire, eastpost spire, and crescent spire in bugaboo provincial park. Aug 01, 2017 on july 27, we summited bugaboo spire via the ne ridge. The east face of snowpatch spire with all the free routes on it. Bugaboos supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. First climbed in 1916 by conrad kain, it has been a treasured objective ever since.
The kain route on bugaboo spire has 5 good pitches of climbing, the rest is scrambling and boot kicking in 40 degree snow and ice on the way to bugaboo snowpatch col. The impressive snowpatch spire is the most obvious spire when entering the bugaboo s. Conrad kain once described this spire as being unclimbable. Most of the routes on the bugaboo spire are accessed via the crescent glacier which is an easy hike from the kain hut and applebee campground. We descended down the krausmccarthy rappel route on the west face of snowpatch spire. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent canada, british columbia, purcell mountains, bugaboos. Likely one of the most popular routes in the bugaboos. The descent via the kain route went into the morning of july 28th. Approach from the kain hut is vai the bugaboo snowpatch col. Snowpatch spire stands at 3,063 metres at the centre of the granite bugaboo towers. Bugaboo spire pigeon spire snowpatch spire eastpost.
The impressive snowpatch spire is the most obvious spire when entering the bugaboos. The camping had spots to hang food, metal lockers, posted weather forecasts, wellkept outhouses, and easy access to the big east face of snowpatch spire and the south face of bugaboo spire. The classic view of the east face of snowpatch spire. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world. If a summer like 2009 happens again, then both climbing and rappelling the pigeon snowpatch rappels might be a new way to approach the west face routes. Apr 21, 2020 beckeys bugaboo hat trick snowpatch and bugaboo spire 1959 supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. We quickly got stoked, and decided to head over to pigeon spire, to climb the classic 5. Soon after this first trip to the bugaboos in 2006, i started to make plans to return to this amazing climbing meca. The route begins at the bugaboosnowpatch col and climbs mostly easy fifthclass up a ridge until the crux. Our next foray on the north face of snowpatch spire had us climbing another new route.
Sunshine is on the north face, which can be approached by following the trail from the hut about a quarter way up toward the snowpatchbugaboo col to a large, loose ledge. The beckeychouinard south howser spire, west ridge pigeon spire, northeast ridge bugaboo spire, snowpatch and surfs up snowpatch spire attract worldclass climbers. The next day we slept in, and the sun rose to reveal the imposing granite masses of bugaboo and snowpatch spires rising almost out of camp. If you want to maximize the time spend on rock relative to your approach time, there are much better places for alpine climbing in western canada than the bugaboos. A steep wall of rock, known as a gendarme, creates a technical climbing crux on an otherwise scrambley line. Beckeys bugaboo hat trick snowpatch and bugaboo spire 1959. Beckeys bugaboo hat trick snowpatch and bugaboo spire 1959 supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for. Bugaboo alpine rock mountaineering alpine rock in nelson. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent.
It has some of the most spectacular alpine climbing in canada. Aac publications snowpatch spire, east face, new routes. Bugaboos beckey chouinard, snowpatch route, hounds tooth date. Little did he realize that future generations would establish routes on this spire that are considered the most enjoyable and aesthetic lines in. For climbs on these features, you only need tennis shoes and a light axe or trekking poles. Bugaboo spire is one of canadas great peaks and our certified bugaboos rock climbing guide staff this area very well. The standard approach is via bugaboo snowpatch col. In addition to bugaboo spire, pigeon spire and snowpatch spire, there are many enjoyable adventure mountain climbing routes on other nearby granite spires. The climbing is never overly difficult or sustained. Peter croft had previously linked the four hardest of these routes all except pigeon spire in about 14 hours. Html guide warning guide view may take some time to load for areas with large numbers of routes instant pdf generic precreated pdf for bugaboos. The bugaboos are, for many, the holy grail of alpine rock climbing in north america. Found on the south end of the west face, surfs up is accessed via the snowpatch bugaboo col.
Climb in one of the worlds great alpine rock climbing areas. Despite some somewhat iffy weather, we managed to climb some stellar routes. If, like most people, you enter the bugs via the trail to conrad kain hut, you wont have to ask anyone for directions to snowpatch. The snowpatch route on spowpatch spire in the bugaboos is a classic if for no other reason in that it is one of the most prominent and visible routes from the. The howser towers from half way up snowpatch spire. It was first climbed by austrian conrad kain in 1916. Approach routes there is a map in the photo gallery for krausmccarthy approach beta.
Ive been meaning to create something like this for awhile. After dropping down as far as we could, we turn up hill and walked along the stream coming out of the glacier. The stream falls rapidly down the scoured rock to the valley below. We used a left variation on pitches three to five, ascending a long rightfacing corner to rejoin the line in the guidebook at the roof. Sunshine is on the north face, which can be approached by following the trail from the hut about a quarter way up toward the snowpatch bugaboo col to a large, loose ledge. The bugaboos are a british columbia provincial park in canadas purcell mountains. Rock climbing in the bugaboos sylvan rocks climbing school. It runs up the left side of the eastern face of snowpatch spire and descends the western face.
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